I promised to put this up for the bloggers I met last night at Paul Frankenstein's charming poker gathering, at which your correspondant brought home a tidy 7.5% return on her initial investment of $20. Since we were there for just over four hours, this is an annualized return of 16,425%, suggesting that perhaps we should leave off blogging and take up gambling for a living.
Anyway, it occurs to me that many, not to say most, of my readers know only the ersatz petroleum-based product marketed by Kraft, or the horrible creations turned out by beknighted relatives who believe that the dish is produced by pouring together some milk, cheese, and macaroni and seeing what happens. So I thought it would be instructive for everyone to learn how easy, and tasty, homemade mac 'n cheese can be. Aside from an extra couple of minutes shopping, and a half hour spent pleasantly sipping your beverage of choice while you wait for this to cook, you really shouldn't spend any more time on this than you do on the box version.
You will need:
1 box of macaroni (elbows are traditional, but anything will do, even spaghetti)
9 tablespoons of butter
6 tablespoons of flour
4 cups of whole milk. (buy a quart, okay? Milk is good for you)
2 cups of cheddar cheese, shredded
2 cups of monterey jack, shredded
(while in general, better ingredients make a better dish, I'm afraid that in this case, the processed Kraft stuff does quite well. We've tried complicated gruyere-and-brie mixtures, and such, yet we keep coming back to this one. If you are truly lazy, and flush, buy two bags of the pre-shredded Monterey Jack and Cheddar mixture, or one back of pre-shredded Jack, and one bag of pre-shredded Cheddar)
Lots of salt
Somewhat less pepper
(At this juncture, I feel I should tell you that you really ought to buy a pepper grinder. They cost practically nothing, and peppercorns are cheap, and fresh ground pepper tastes so much better)
1/4 teaspoon of paprika (don't worry; you'll use it again when I teach you how to make deviled eggs)
Worstershire sauce
An oven and a stove.
A large (13x9) baking dish
A medium saucepan
A small saucepan
A grater, unless you bought pre-shredded cheese
Assorted random small dishes for you to measure things into, like grated cheese and flour. It does not matter what size these are.
All right, first thing's first: turn the oven on to 350.
Bring the water to a boil. While you are waiting for it to boil, shred your cheese and start your white sauce:
Melt 6 tablespoons of the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. That's 3/4 of a stick of butter, for those who are not up on these things. Do not use margarine; this is not a dish that is going to make you any friends in your arteries. As well to be hung for a sheep as a lamb.
Measuring out 6 tablespoons of flour into a small dish. You do have a dishwasher, right? Flour should be measured by the dip-level-pour method: you dip the tablespoon or measuring cup into the flour, you run the flat side of a knife along the top so that the surface of the flour is level with the edges of the spoon, and then you pour the flour you've measured into the little dish we just talked about.
Meanwhile, take a medium saucepan, put your milk in it, and put it on to heat over medium-low heat. If it starts to bubble over, the heat is too high. Turn it down.
When the water is boiling, put several tablespoons of salt in before you add the pasta. Unsalted pasta is an abomination in the eyes of God. Note the cooking time on the side of the box and set your oven timer or mental clock to the lower number.
Your butter should be melted now. Dump in the flour and stir it around until it's mixed in. Now leave it on the heat. In a minute it will start to bubble. When you see it bubble, let it bubble for one minute more. It would be a good idea to use your watch or clock rather than relying on your judgement of how long a minute is.
While you are letting it bubble, take a tablespoon of the remaining butter and rub it around the inside of the pan until it is covered with butter. This is known as "buttering the dish". The downside is that your hands will also end up covered with butter, but thankfully they're washable.
When the butter-and-flour-mixture in the pan has bubbled for a minute, dump in your now-hot milk. Stir. It's important to stir fairly constantly, scraping the bottom so all the gook you just bubbled gets blended in. That gook is known as a "roux", and as soon as it thickens up, the sauce you are working on will be known as a "bechamel sauce". Congratulations. You just did your first fancy French cooking.
For a streaming video of how to make a white sauce, for anyone who is confused, click here.
This sauce is also the base for any number of things, from creamed chicken to chicken-pot-pie to the ever popular chipped beef on toast.
Anyway. Stir the sauce until it stops thickening. By the time your sauce has thickened up, your pasta should be done. It might be done before that. Don't worry about leaving the sauce while you drain the pasta. It will survive.
Run the pasta under cold water and set aside.
Add the cheese to your bechamel sauce and stir it until it's melted. Now add the paprika, a teaspoon of worstershire, and grind in some salt and pepper. Be conservative with the salt; easier to put more in than to take it out. Keep adding salt and pepper in small amounts until you like the taste. If you want to add more worstershire, you can also do that. This is your macaroni and cheese. Own it.
Once the taste suits you, put it into your covered dish. Cut up the remaining butter into little pieces about the size of a baby pea and sprinkle them over the top. Don't obsess about the size of the butter too much. It's not that important.
Bake at 350 for 40 minutes. Take out. Eat. Enjoy. This makes a beautiful, puffy, not-overpowering mac-and-cheese.
As you can see, this requires about ten minutes of constant work, versus opening a box. But I guarantee you'll like this better. Plus, this makes an enormous amount, so you'll have more leftovers. And overall it's cheaper.
If you don't need quite that much, you can cut the recipe in half. Or you can make it and freeze it instead of baking it.
To review:
The separate pieces are
a) Preheat oven
b) Butter pan
c) Shred cheese
d) Make pasta
e) Make white sauce
f) Add cheese and spices to white sauce
g) Put in pan and bake.
Variations
Before putting the macaroni and cheese into the pan, try lining the bottom with:
Ham mixed with shredded cheese
Sliced mushrooms sauted in garlic
A can of chopped, spiced tomatoes
Frozen boil-in-bag broccoli
Cooked, canned, or frozen asparagus
Sauted onions
Or try topping with these old favorites:
2 cups of breadcrumbs mixed with 1 cup cheese and 2 tablespoons of softened butter
Crushed crackers
Potato chips
If you like your mac-and-cheese creamier, halve the amount of white sauce and add a container of sour cream.
Posted by Jane Galt at December 8, 2002 04:22 PM | TrackBack | Technorati inbound linksYour annualized return would be much, much, (much) higher than 16,425%. If you do make the switch to 24/7 gambling please let the Treasury know -- they're going to have to buy some extra printing presses. Oh, and don't forget the little people.
Posted by: JDL on December 8, 2002 06:29 PMFrench cooking is the foundation for Sh*t on a Shingle?
Cor lum stone the crows!
Posted by: Mike Orris on December 8, 2002 06:54 PMYou made 38 cents an hour. I guess that beats a sweatshop in China.
Posted by: Fred Boness on December 8, 2002 07:19 PMTO ALL THE MEN IN THE NEW YORK AREA
Let's review: Megan is witty, well educated, good looking (by all reports), and now we learn that she can cook and that she plays poker. Why is this woman still single?
Posted by: David Walser on December 8, 2002 09:01 PM---Begin Quote---
Do not use margarine; this is not a dish that is going to make you any friends in your arteries. As well to be hung for a sheep as a lamb.
---End Quote---
Far worse yet, the lamb in sheep's clothing.
Margarine is marketed by being free of saturated fats, however, the risk due to trans-Fatty acids which compose margarine makes it just as bad, if not worse for you.
There's no question which is better from a culinary standpoint.
Yeah, don't use margarine, at least don't use it if it's hydrogenated.
I like to put a little dried mustard in it myself. Adds a little tang. Also, this same cheez goo put on top of sliced potatoes and baked will also make a nice attempt at scalloped potatoes.
Posted by: nudedude on December 8, 2002 10:51 PMTechnically that would be potatoes au gratin, and yes it is tasty. This basic cheese sauce goes well on almost any vegetable, especially broccoli and asparagus.
Mustard's not sufficiently purist for me, but many people swear by it.
Posted by: Jane Galt on December 8, 2002 11:06 PMLooking at the recipie I thought of someting to add to the sauce just before putting it on the pasta: shredded bacon, maybe a cup or a cup & a half. (I say shredded bacon instead of bacon bits to avoid the vaugely baconish flavored chunks of soy masquerading under the name...)
Posted by: Cybrludite on December 8, 2002 11:39 PM"Meanwhile, take a medium saucepan, put your milk in it, and put it on to heat over medium-low heat. If it starts to bubble over, the heat is too high. Turn it down."
I nuke the milk, so I don't have to worry about overheating.
"Unsalted pasta is an abomination in the eyes of God."
Heh.
"Your butter should be melted now. Dump in the flour and stir it around until it's mixed in. Now leave it on the heat."
I mix in the flour a Tbsp at a time so I don't have a great lump to break up.
"While you are letting it bubble, take a tablespoon of the remaining butter and rub it around the inside of the pan until it is covered with butter. This is known as 'buttering the dish'. The downside is that your hands will also end up covered with butter, but thankfully they're washable."
If you start with a fresh stick and leave the part you don't need for the white sauce on the paper you can pick up the still-partly-wrapped butter and rub it around without getting much butter on you hands.
"When the butter-and-flour-mixture in the pan has bubbled for a minute, dump in your now-hot milk. Stir. It's important to stir fairly constantly, scraping the bottom so all the gook you just bubbled gets blended in."
Again, adding the milk gradually to the roux makes it easier to mix the two.
"That gook is known as a 'roux', and as soon as it thickens up, the sauce you are working on will be known as a 'bechamel sauce'. Congratulations. You just did your first fancy French cooking."
Without checking, this recipe sounds like the one in Fanny Farmer. Or do you use Joy of Cooking?
Posted by: Bill Woods on December 9, 2002 03:48 AMNeither one; it's a family recipe. And I'm afraid that Julia Child vehemently disagrees with you on the subject of gradualism in bechamel. . .
Posted by: Jane Galt on December 9, 2002 07:37 AMSounds generally like the recipe from 'The Vegetarian Epicure', except they use Fontina and some Parmesan. Great results - it's a staple for casual get-togethers around here, and as you say, it freezes well for last minute dinners.
I gotta go with gradualism on the white sauce, too.
Cheers,
Glenn
Posted by: Glenn Thomson on December 9, 2002 12:38 PMThat Kraft muck disguised as mac and cheese? It should be against ones' beliefs to eat something the color of the stripe down the middle of the road. Also, real cooks grate their own cheese, the sharper and more flavorsome the better. The military commissaries used to unload Department of Ag surplus cheddar, and that made the best mac and cheese ever.
Definitly add mustard to the sauce: it intensifies the taste of the cheese. And one night when I was slightly blitzed and making mac and cheese, I grabbed the cayenne pepper instead of paprika; what a taste thrill!
Used your receipe to make dinner last night. Mmmm good! Thanks!
Posted by: John F. MacMichael on December 10, 2002 06:28 PMMy first testimonial! Had you made anything like this before, and if not, did you find it easy?
Posted by: Jane Galt on December 10, 2002 08:15 PMWell, yes and no. I am a competent basic cook but I had never had much luck with macaroni and cheese for some reason. Following your receipe was straight forward tho I was not sure how much macaroni was a "box". I have a nice receipe for coconut bread if you would like it?
Posted by: John F. MacMichael on December 11, 2002 09:57 PMWould love it. For future reference, one box is usually a pound of pasta, which is what I should have said. Excellent feedback for my next venture: Wild Mushroom Pasta
Posted by: Jane Galt on December 12, 2002 12:40 PMHere is the coconut bread receipe:
COCONUT BREAD
2 Large Eggs
1 1/4 cups Milk
1 teaspoon Vanilla Extract
2 1/2 cups Flour, more for dusting pan
2 teaspoons Baking Powder
2 teaspoons Cinnamon
1 cup Superfine Sugar
5 ounces Flaked Coconut
6 tablespoons Unsalted Butter
Vegetable Oil (for loaf pan)
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
In a small bowl, whisk together Eggs, Milk and Vanilla.
In a small pan, melt Butter.
2. In a medium bowl, sift together Flour (2 1/2 cups), Baking Powder (2 ts) and Cinnamon (2 ts)
Add Sugar (1 cup) and Coconut (1 1/2 cups) and stir to mix. Make a well in the center, and pour in egg mixture. Gradually mix with dry ingredients, until just combined. Add melted butter, and stir until smooth. Do not overmix.
3. Oil and flour an 8 1/2-by-4 inch loaf pan.
Pour batter into pan.
Bake at 350 degrees for 1 to 1 1/4 hours.
The bread is done when a knife thrust into the center comes out clean.
Cool in pan 5 minutes, remove from pan and finish cooling on a rack.
4. To serve, cut in 8 to 10 thick slices. It is good plain or buttered or with a good tart marmalade. If you have leftovers, it is delicious lightly toasted and with butter.
Enjoy!
In the spirit of full disclosure and credit where credit is due, I will tell you that I got this receipe from a piece in the NYT (Jan. 9, 2002 p.B15) by R.W. Apple Jr. The man is a waste of paper and ink as a political commentator but he does know something about food. He picked it up in a cafe in Sydney.
I enjoy reading your blog. It is one of those that I check every time I get online. You are funny and you make me think. A rare combo.
Posted by: John F. MacMichael on December 13, 2002 09:34 AMI've never made mac-and-cheese like this before, but tonight I did it with a recipe similar but not identical to this one (I have a williams-sonoma cookbook called Cooking For Yourself that provides nicely-scaled-down recipes). I was sure I was going to burn the roux. I have a tendency to burn things. But no! I actually kinda did it wrong, in terms of what heat for how long and stirring or no, but it came out beautifully. I also own no cheese grater and forgot to plan ahead, so I cut the cheese with a knife. I did not burn that either!
I discovered that I do not, in fact, like "real" macaroni and cheese.
:-(
Posted by: beth on February 6, 2003 07:36 PMI made Jane's mac and cheese last night and it was delic. Tomorrow I am going to try beth's coconut bread. Sounds yummy and can't wait. I just quit working and plan on doing a lot of homemade food for a change. I will welcome any tasty receipes anyone might have- especially involving green beans, corn and more int. mac and cheese ideas. Thanks.
Posted by: Grace on September 18, 2003 05:23 PMComments are Closed.